In the beginning...
The 18th century will be the first era of sewing that I will attempt to document entirely on-line.
The first thing I did when looking at the 18th century was establish a list of what I needed to sew to get a basic outfit complete. For this, looking at authenticity-driven reenactor and costumer sites was very helpful. I came up with the preliminary list of:
-shift -stockings, garters, shoes -stay -petticoats and skirt support -cap and neckerchief -underskirt -dress
From that point, I started to look at each garment in detail, starting from the skin out. First, I researched shifts, looked at all the originals I could find, patterns, reviews, etc. My goal was to develop an accurate idea of what style, materials, and construction techniques would be appropriate. I continued this with every item until I had a list of what I needed. The dress took a bit longer to research what styles were appropriate for different socio-economic levels, ages, geographic locations, etc. At that point, my sewing plan took a bit more of a concrete appearance:
-A linen shift sewn by Kannik's Korner 1750 shift pattern
-A pair of linen stays, sewn from JP Ryans straped, fashionable stays pattern
-A bum roll, and two linen petticoats, no pattern
-Shoes from Fugawee, worn with clocked silk stockings.
-Dress sewn from JP Ryan's Robe L'Anglaise pattern, en forreau back. Possibly contrasting underskirt.
-Cap-La Fleur De Lyse Caps and Coifs pattern, probably in sheer white linen.
-Hat- Purchased straw hat with silk trims.
-Apron of fine white linen
-Neckerchief of ditto
Starting to sew the foundations
February 2,2010
Then the shopping time comes!
I've purchased the patterns I will need or find especially useful. With eras I am familiar with, such as the 1860s, I tend to not use patterns. As this is my first foray into the 18th century, I am using some as a base point for seam lines and structure.
I've also purchased linen enough for shift, stays and cap from The Fabrics Store. The shift and the cap are cut out and in the process of being sewn, by hand with silk thread. I've also ordered tape for finishing the cap and stays, as well as stockings and these shoes from Burnley and Trowbridge.
Once I have a mock-up of my stays, then I will be ordering boning. After that, the next big project is petticoats and skirt supports.
April 14, 2010
I've made my shift, neckerchief and cap, and have stockings and shoes on hand.
I've also made my stay mock-up, purchased boning, and have the stays well underway. Pictures will be forthcoming.
Once I finish the stays, I'm going to construct a bum roll out of the scraps, and order shoe buckles, and fabric for the pockets and petticoats.
December 29, 2010
I have my stays done! And a panier! And pockets! See:
The stays took much longer than I anticipated. While it wasn't difficult sewing, it was tedious and time-consuming. Boning it was a challenge all in itself, which I do not intend to do again!
Ideally, the stays and pockets wouldn't be the same color. It's what I had on hand though. When I have enough clothes, I will go back and make a more attractive pair of pockets. The panier may have some slight tweaking once I get skirts over it. I decided on a panier over a bum roll some months ago, as it fits more with the style and precise era that took my interest.
Two petticoats almost done, and some lovely wool ordered for my dress. Hopefully going to my first!! 18th century event in February 2011. I will probably freeze and/or cheat and wear my 19th century wool flannel underpinnings. :-)
January 4, 2011.
Petticoats are done! I have some lovely cinammon-y wool/silk/linen blend for a dress which I will start cutting out tonight. I need to figure out my "finish or die" by date for the dress...
February 1, 2011.
Dress done! Outfit complete (sans hat, and eventual outerwear).
The polanaisey back was too long, so I held it up to make it too short. I need to adjust.