American Duchess has done it again! (hopefully!) Now you can pre-order some pretty nice looking early regency styled shoes. I am really looking forward to these, and so happy that there is something filling in the gap for that period of foodwear!

The "Pemberley" Regency shoes are closely based on extant footwear from the 1790s through 1810. The smooth, dyable, hand-sewn leather upper is designed to be lovely enough formal occasions, and durable enough for walking in the countryside. Particular attention was paid to the point of the toe, as well as the other hallmarks of Regency historical footwear, with the main goals being both historical accuracy and all-day comfort

One month left of the year! Let's see how far I strayed from my goals.

• 1) Refitting 1860s Evening Bodice Finished March 2011
• 2)Reassembling Plaid Silk Dress Finished February 2011
• 3)Finishing Two Linen 1770s PetticoatsFinished January 2011
• 4)1770s Wool Robe L'anglaise Finished January 2011
• 5)Regency Bonnet Finished April 2011
• 6)1860s Mourning Bonnet and Veil Finished February 2011
• 7)Finish dressing Paper Mache Doll Finished April 2011
• 8)Clothkits Skirt Finished May 2011
• 9)1940s Dress Finished May 2011
• 10)1830s Sleeve Crinolines Finished June 2011
• 11)1860s Sheer Mourning/Black Dress Finished June 2011
• 12)1860s Traveling Veil Finished July 2011
• 13)1850s Straw Bonnet Finished July 2011
• 14)1830s Dress Finished September 2011
• 15)Halloween Costume Finished September 2011

ADDED PROJECTS

- 1860s Evening Gown for Remembrance Day- Finished November 2011 - 1860s Outfit for Child -All finished except dress - New 1860s Belt- Finished October 2011

• 16)Reconstructing 1850s Wool Dress
• 17)1830s Belt
• 18)1830s Pereline
• 19)1850s Cotton Dress
• 20)1850s Black Wool Basque
• 21)1860s Sheer Outerwear Thing
• 22)Recover Marquise Parasol
• 23)Finish dressing china doll

So, for December, I'm going to try and knock out some of the smaller projects and bring the number down. So, I am aiming for getting the Belt, Pereline, and Doll done, at least.

And for your viewing pleasure today, a blog post on textile conservation from FIDM, including pictures of what bad or no conservation efforts does to a garment!

http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2010/08/the-fidm-museum-conservation-collection.html#more%blogit-more%%%

Okay, so I lost a bunch of blog posts at some point. And totally fail at following a plan throughout the year. Whatever.

• 1) Refitting 1860s Evening Bodice Finished March 2011
• 2)Reassembling Plaid Silk Dress Finished February 2011
• 3)Finishing Two Linen 1770s PetticoatsFinished January 2011
• 4)1770s Wool Robe L'anglaise Finished January 2011
• 5)Regency Bonnet Finished April 2011
• 6)1860s Mourning Bonnet and Veil Finished February 2011
• 7)Finish dressing Paper Mache Doll Finished April 2011
• 8)Clothkits Skirt Finished May 2011
• 9)1940s Dress Finished May 2011
• 10)1830s Sleeve Crinolines Finished June 2011
• 11)1860s Sheer Mourning/Black Dress Finished June 2011
• 12)1860s Traveling Veil Finished July 2011
• 13)1850s Straw Bonnet Finished July 2011
• 14)Reconstructing 1850s Wool Dress
• 15)1830s Dress
• 16)1830s Belt
• 17)1830s Pereline
• 18)1850s Cotton Dress
• 19)1850s Black Wool Basque
• 20)1860s Sheer Outerwear Thing
• 21)Recover Marquise Parasol
• 22)Finish dressing china doll
• 23) Halloween Costume

And the 1830s dress is half-way done. And the Halloween costume is started. I meant for the 1830s dress to be done in August. It's not. I've been working on... redoing some other things, and sewing some kids stuff, and making new unders, and enjoying my new silks. And some work sewing. So I've actually way exceeded the amount of production; but still... the original list! Must work on original list! Ack!

This ad from a relatively local paper in 1866 makes me happy in many ways!

 Run to COHEN’S very quick
 For HIGH PRICES is mighty sick,
 If you wish to keep him down
 By the CHEAPEST GOODS IN TOWN.
 Take your CASH and BARTER there,
 He will be polite and fair.
 BARGAINS there you can get
 Ten per cent his profits net.
 So rush along, be in the ring.
 And do your trading while I sing.


 FRESH ARRIVALS every day,
 Cheap and Cheaper buyers say; 
 CALICOS of every Style,
 HOOP SKIRTS there are pile on pile,
 THE ENGLISH PRINCESS SKIRT or three,
 And the DOLLAR SKIRT you’ll see,
 WORSTED, FLANNELS, HATS AND SHOES
 CLOTHING ready made to use.
 So don’t delay, but push along,
 While I sing this CHEAP STORE song.
 M. COHEN has the SHAKER HOODS
 And BALMORALS of finest GOODS
 The latest Style of BONNETS there
 You’ll find untrimm’d or trim’d with care.
 For GIRLS he has the Hat for Fall
 Or Winter, and can suit them all.
 For BOYS he’s got the Velvet Cap,
 The Slick the Cloth and PLUSH WITH Flap.
 So hurry ‘long in time to get
 Your CROCKERY WARE by piece or set.
 GOOD OLD RIO you can get
 And SUGAR too, that isn’t wet.
 There you can get at lowest price
 Your SALT & Dye Stuffs, & your SPICE.
 In short of GROCERIES he will keep
 A Full Supply of Good and Cheap.
 OF HARDWARE he will keep on Hand
 The best sold in this Tar Heel LAND.
 So run along, and take a peep
 At Goods that all agree are cheap.

 In fifty lines I cannot tell
 Of all he has, and how he’ll sell,
 But this I know, he’s selling cheap,
 And profits large he doesn’t reap.
 He’ll take just what you bring to sell,
 And though called ‘Jew’ will treat you well.
 “No dead men wanted here,” tis said,
 But let them blow HIGH PRICE is dead;
 So I’ll advise you call and try
 AT COHEN’S when you wish to buy.


 Hillsborough Recorder, October 2, 1866.
 M. COHEN’s Variety Store, C.M. Latimer’s Old Stand, Hillsborough, NC.

April's over. It's June. I'm tired. Here are my goals. I am, btw, almost finished with that blasted black sheer.

• 1) Refitting 1860s Evening Bodice Finished March 2011
• 2)Reassembling Plaid Silk Dress Finished February 2011
• 3)Finishing Two Linen 1770s PetticoatsFinished January 2011
• 4)1770s Wool Robe L'anglaise Finished January 2011
• 5)Regency Bonnet Finished April 2011
• 6)1860s Mourning Bonnet and Veil Finished February 2011
• 7)Finish dressing Paper Mache Doll Finished April 2011
• 8)Clothkits Skirt Finished May 2011
• 9)1940s Dress Finished May 2011
• 10)Reconstructing 1850s Wool Dress
• 11)1830s Sleeve Crinolines -Goal June 2011
• 12)1830s Dress -Start June 2011
• 13)1830s Belt
• 14)1830s Pereline
• 15)1850s Straw Bonnet
• 16)1850s Cotton Dress
• 17)1850s Black Wool Basque
• 18)1860s Traveling Veil -Goal June 2011
• 19)1860s Sheer Mourning/Black Dress -Goal March 2011
• 20)1860s Sheer Outerwear Thing
• 21)Recover Marquise Parasol
• 22)Finish dressing china doll
• 23) Halloween Costume

A while back, while sick, I posted a rant that was brought up by seeing someone I know claim someone else's sewing as their own. Now, that I'm not sick, I'd like to talk in a logical manner about what I was so upset about, as well as the legalities of it all.

First, moral obligations. I think we can all agree that if you go and by a landscape painting, add an extra bird, and change the artist name to your own, that's a pretty skezzy thing to do, right? Well, what about if you buy a print and alter it, just because it's not an original piece, doesn't mean that you have the right to add a bird and call it your own. As a seamstresss, I would be outraged if I ever sold a dress to someone, just to have them change the trim and go around telling people that they made the dress themselves. No, they didn't. I don't think the situation changes if a person goes and buys a mass-produced garment and does the same thing. However, there are people out there I see who buy thrifted clothing, completely cut it apart and make a new garment of these. For the most part, these seamstresses don't call it their own work, but call it "repurposed" or "recycled" or something like that; I appreciate that, as they are calling it what it is, and being honest. I also admire the heck out of a lot of their work.

But back to the issue. Original dress that set me off. It was a semi-massed produced dress; the initial person purchased it and added some trim, then told people she made it herself. No; you decorated it yourself. Call it was it is. Be honest. I'm all about encouraging budding seamstresses in the skill; but don't claim work you haven't done.

Now, legally speaking. Unfortunately, fashion doesn't have the same protection currently as some other art-forms do. There is much debate over whether fashion design can be copyrighted; ie; making "knock-offs" an infringement of these copyrights. That's not exactly what we are talking about here though. We also have copyright laws on pattern useage; patterns stay under copyright for a long (I think 75 years) time; we can't buy a pattern, make 200 copies of the item, and call it our own and sell it. The pattern you buy commercially is only to make yourself garments; non-profit, etc. Okay, we are getting a little closer to what we are talking about. Now, unless a dress is copyrighted, or the dress design, we aren't dealing with copyrights. So is this just a moral issue? Is there any law protecting seamstresses from having other people claim their work? Maybe this falls under plagiarism? A garment is definitely intellectual and creative property... but plagiarism isn't a crime; so I guess it goes back to the moral and ethical question of it all.

Probably inevitable. Restructuring of 2011 plans.

BTW, I think 2012 will be the year of Reading and Underpinnings and Modern sewing.

• 1) Refitting 1860s Evening Bodice Finished March 2011
• 2)Reassembling Plaid Silk Dress Finished February 2011
• 3)Finishing Two Linen 1770s PetticoatsFinished January 2011
• 4)1770s Wool Robe L'anglaise Finished January 2011
• 5)Regency Bonnet Finished April 2011
• 6)1860s Mourning Bonnet and Veil - Finished February 2011
• 7)Finish dressing Paper Mache Doll Finished April 2011
• 8)Reconstructing 1850s Wool Dress
• 9)1830s Sleeve Crinolines
• 10)1830s Dress
• 11)1830s Belt
• 12)1830s Pereline
• 13)1850s Straw Bonnet
• 14)1850s Cotton Dress
• 15)1850s Black Wool Basque
• 16)1860s Traveling Veil
• 17)1860s Sheer Mourning/Black Dress -Goal March 2011
• 18)1860s Sheer Outerwear Thing
• 19)Recover Marquise Parasol
• 20)Finish dressing china doll

Added Projects-

• 21) ClothKits Skirt - Goal May 2011
• 22) Halloween Costume
• 23) 1940s Dress - Goal May 2011

That brings the total up to almost exactly 2 projects a month. And I'm behind. *sigh*

Very cool dress preservation and reconstruction:

http://www.pasthorizons.com/index.php/archives/03/2011/the-archaeology-of-a-dress

Oh, those beetle wings! I love the use of beetle wings in the trim of a dress. There was an 1840s dress on an auction site not to long ago that had beetle wing trim... oh! Does anyone know where to buy beetle wings these days? Are beetle wings harvested in a humane manner??

In other news, my regency bonnet is done, save for putting ribbon and ties on it, which I don't have yet. I'm working on picking out ribbon.

I've started an additional project to, but as it's not on my list, I'm going to keep in a secret for now. :-)

American Duchess has done it again! (hopefully!) Now you can pre-order some pretty nice looking early regency styled shoes. I am really looking forward to these, and so happy that there is something filling in the gap for that period of foodwear!

The "Pemberley" Regency shoes are closely based on extant footwear from the 1790s through 1810. The smooth, dyable, hand-sewn leather upper is designed to be lovely enough formal occasions, and durable enough for walking in the countryside. Particular attention was paid to the point of the toe, as well as the other hallmarks of Regency historical footwear, with the main goals being both historical accuracy and all-day comfort

One month left of the year! Let's see how far I strayed from my goals.

• 1) Refitting 1860s Evening Bodice Finished March 2011
• 2)Reassembling Plaid Silk Dress Finished February 2011
• 3)Finishing Two Linen 1770s PetticoatsFinished January 2011
• 4)1770s Wool Robe L'anglaise Finished January 2011
• 5)Regency Bonnet Finished April 2011
• 6)1860s Mourning Bonnet and Veil Finished February 2011
• 7)Finish dressing Paper Mache Doll Finished April 2011
• 8)Clothkits Skirt Finished May 2011
• 9)1940s Dress Finished May 2011
• 10)1830s Sleeve Crinolines Finished June 2011
• 11)1860s Sheer Mourning/Black Dress Finished June 2011
• 12)1860s Traveling Veil Finished July 2011
• 13)1850s Straw Bonnet Finished July 2011
• 14)1830s Dress Finished September 2011
• 15)Halloween Costume Finished September 2011

ADDED PROJECTS

- 1860s Evening Gown for Remembrance Day- Finished November 2011 - 1860s Outfit for Child -All finished except dress - New 1860s Belt- Finished October 2011

• 16)Reconstructing 1850s Wool Dress
• 17)1830s Belt
• 18)1830s Pereline
• 19)1850s Cotton Dress
• 20)1850s Black Wool Basque
• 21)1860s Sheer Outerwear Thing
• 22)Recover Marquise Parasol
• 23)Finish dressing china doll

So, for December, I'm going to try and knock out some of the smaller projects and bring the number down. So, I am aiming for getting the Belt, Pereline, and Doll done, at least.

And for your viewing pleasure today, a blog post on textile conservation from FIDM, including pictures of what bad or no conservation efforts does to a garment!

http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2010/08/the-fidm-museum-conservation-collection.html#more%blogit-more%%%

Okay, so I lost a bunch of blog posts at some point. And totally fail at following a plan throughout the year. Whatever.

• 1) Refitting 1860s Evening Bodice Finished March 2011
• 2)Reassembling Plaid Silk Dress Finished February 2011
• 3)Finishing Two Linen 1770s PetticoatsFinished January 2011
• 4)1770s Wool Robe L'anglaise Finished January 2011
• 5)Regency Bonnet Finished April 2011
• 6)1860s Mourning Bonnet and Veil Finished February 2011
• 7)Finish dressing Paper Mache Doll Finished April 2011
• 8)Clothkits Skirt Finished May 2011
• 9)1940s Dress Finished May 2011
• 10)1830s Sleeve Crinolines Finished June 2011
• 11)1860s Sheer Mourning/Black Dress Finished June 2011
• 12)1860s Traveling Veil Finished July 2011
• 13)1850s Straw Bonnet Finished July 2011
• 14)Reconstructing 1850s Wool Dress
• 15)1830s Dress
• 16)1830s Belt
• 17)1830s Pereline
• 18)1850s Cotton Dress
• 19)1850s Black Wool Basque
• 20)1860s Sheer Outerwear Thing
• 21)Recover Marquise Parasol
• 22)Finish dressing china doll
• 23) Halloween Costume

And the 1830s dress is half-way done. And the Halloween costume is started. I meant for the 1830s dress to be done in August. It's not. I've been working on... redoing some other things, and sewing some kids stuff, and making new unders, and enjoying my new silks. And some work sewing. So I've actually way exceeded the amount of production; but still... the original list! Must work on original list! Ack!

This ad from a relatively local paper in 1866 makes me happy in many ways!

 Run to COHEN’S very quick
 For HIGH PRICES is mighty sick,
 If you wish to keep him down
 By the CHEAPEST GOODS IN TOWN.
 Take your CASH and BARTER there,
 He will be polite and fair.
 BARGAINS there you can get
 Ten per cent his profits net.
 So rush along, be in the ring.
 And do your trading while I sing.


 FRESH ARRIVALS every day,
 Cheap and Cheaper buyers say; 
 CALICOS of every Style,
 HOOP SKIRTS there are pile on pile,
 THE ENGLISH PRINCESS SKIRT or three,
 And the DOLLAR SKIRT you’ll see,
 WORSTED, FLANNELS, HATS AND SHOES
 CLOTHING ready made to use.
 So don’t delay, but push along,
 While I sing this CHEAP STORE song.
 M. COHEN has the SHAKER HOODS
 And BALMORALS of finest GOODS
 The latest Style of BONNETS there
 You’ll find untrimm’d or trim’d with care.
 For GIRLS he has the Hat for Fall
 Or Winter, and can suit them all.
 For BOYS he’s got the Velvet Cap,
 The Slick the Cloth and PLUSH WITH Flap.
 So hurry ‘long in time to get
 Your CROCKERY WARE by piece or set.
 GOOD OLD RIO you can get
 And SUGAR too, that isn’t wet.
 There you can get at lowest price
 Your SALT & Dye Stuffs, & your SPICE.
 In short of GROCERIES he will keep
 A Full Supply of Good and Cheap.
 OF HARDWARE he will keep on Hand
 The best sold in this Tar Heel LAND.
 So run along, and take a peep
 At Goods that all agree are cheap.

 In fifty lines I cannot tell
 Of all he has, and how he’ll sell,
 But this I know, he’s selling cheap,
 And profits large he doesn’t reap.
 He’ll take just what you bring to sell,
 And though called ‘Jew’ will treat you well.
 “No dead men wanted here,” tis said,
 But let them blow HIGH PRICE is dead;
 So I’ll advise you call and try
 AT COHEN’S when you wish to buy.


 Hillsborough Recorder, October 2, 1866.
 M. COHEN’s Variety Store, C.M. Latimer’s Old Stand, Hillsborough, NC.

April's over. It's June. I'm tired. Here are my goals. I am, btw, almost finished with that blasted black sheer.

• 1) Refitting 1860s Evening Bodice Finished March 2011
• 2)Reassembling Plaid Silk Dress Finished February 2011
• 3)Finishing Two Linen 1770s PetticoatsFinished January 2011
• 4)1770s Wool Robe L'anglaise Finished January 2011
• 5)Regency Bonnet Finished April 2011
• 6)1860s Mourning Bonnet and Veil Finished February 2011
• 7)Finish dressing Paper Mache Doll Finished April 2011
• 8)Clothkits Skirt Finished May 2011
• 9)1940s Dress Finished May 2011
• 10)Reconstructing 1850s Wool Dress
• 11)1830s Sleeve Crinolines -Goal June 2011
• 12)1830s Dress -Start June 2011
• 13)1830s Belt
• 14)1830s Pereline
• 15)1850s Straw Bonnet
• 16)1850s Cotton Dress
• 17)1850s Black Wool Basque
• 18)1860s Traveling Veil -Goal June 2011
• 19)1860s Sheer Mourning/Black Dress -Goal March 2011
• 20)1860s Sheer Outerwear Thing
• 21)Recover Marquise Parasol
• 22)Finish dressing china doll
• 23) Halloween Costume

A while back, while sick, I posted a rant that was brought up by seeing someone I know claim someone else's sewing as their own. Now, that I'm not sick, I'd like to talk in a logical manner about what I was so upset about, as well as the legalities of it all.

First, moral obligations. I think we can all agree that if you go and by a landscape painting, add an extra bird, and change the artist name to your own, that's a pretty skezzy thing to do, right? Well, what about if you buy a print and alter it, just because it's not an original piece, doesn't mean that you have the right to add a bird and call it your own. As a seamstresss, I would be outraged if I ever sold a dress to someone, just to have them change the trim and go around telling people that they made the dress themselves. No, they didn't. I don't think the situation changes if a person goes and buys a mass-produced garment and does the same thing. However, there are people out there I see who buy thrifted clothing, completely cut it apart and make a new garment of these. For the most part, these seamstresses don't call it their own work, but call it "repurposed" or "recycled" or something like that; I appreciate that, as they are calling it what it is, and being honest. I also admire the heck out of a lot of their work.

But back to the issue. Original dress that set me off. It was a semi-massed produced dress; the initial person purchased it and added some trim, then told people she made it herself. No; you decorated it yourself. Call it was it is. Be honest. I'm all about encouraging budding seamstresses in the skill; but don't claim work you haven't done.

Now, legally speaking. Unfortunately, fashion doesn't have the same protection currently as some other art-forms do. There is much debate over whether fashion design can be copyrighted; ie; making "knock-offs" an infringement of these copyrights. That's not exactly what we are talking about here though. We also have copyright laws on pattern useage; patterns stay under copyright for a long (I think 75 years) time; we can't buy a pattern, make 200 copies of the item, and call it our own and sell it. The pattern you buy commercially is only to make yourself garments; non-profit, etc. Okay, we are getting a little closer to what we are talking about. Now, unless a dress is copyrighted, or the dress design, we aren't dealing with copyrights. So is this just a moral issue? Is there any law protecting seamstresses from having other people claim their work? Maybe this falls under plagiarism? A garment is definitely intellectual and creative property... but plagiarism isn't a crime; so I guess it goes back to the moral and ethical question of it all.

Probably inevitable. Restructuring of 2011 plans.

BTW, I think 2012 will be the year of Reading and Underpinnings and Modern sewing.

• 1) Refitting 1860s Evening Bodice Finished March 2011
• 2)Reassembling Plaid Silk Dress Finished February 2011
• 3)Finishing Two Linen 1770s PetticoatsFinished January 2011
• 4)1770s Wool Robe L'anglaise Finished January 2011
• 5)Regency Bonnet Finished April 2011
• 6)1860s Mourning Bonnet and Veil - Finished February 2011
• 7)Finish dressing Paper Mache Doll Finished April 2011
• 8)Reconstructing 1850s Wool Dress
• 9)1830s Sleeve Crinolines
• 10)1830s Dress
• 11)1830s Belt
• 12)1830s Pereline
• 13)1850s Straw Bonnet
• 14)1850s Cotton Dress
• 15)1850s Black Wool Basque
• 16)1860s Traveling Veil
• 17)1860s Sheer Mourning/Black Dress -Goal March 2011
• 18)1860s Sheer Outerwear Thing
• 19)Recover Marquise Parasol
• 20)Finish dressing china doll

Added Projects-

• 21) ClothKits Skirt - Goal May 2011
• 22) Halloween Costume
• 23) 1940s Dress - Goal May 2011

That brings the total up to almost exactly 2 projects a month. And I'm behind. *sigh*

Very cool dress preservation and reconstruction:

http://www.pasthorizons.com/index.php/archives/03/2011/the-archaeology-of-a-dress

Oh, those beetle wings! I love the use of beetle wings in the trim of a dress. There was an 1840s dress on an auction site not to long ago that had beetle wing trim... oh! Does anyone know where to buy beetle wings these days? Are beetle wings harvested in a humane manner??

In other news, my regency bonnet is done, save for putting ribbon and ties on it, which I don't have yet. I'm working on picking out ribbon.

I've started an additional project to, but as it's not on my list, I'm going to keep in a secret for now. :-)

American Duchess has done it again! (hopefully!) Now you can pre-order some pretty nice looking early regency styled shoes. I am really looking forward to these, and so happy that there is something filling in the gap for that period of foodwear!

The "Pemberley" Regency shoes are closely based on extant footwear from the 1790s through 1810. The smooth, dyable, hand-sewn leather upper is designed to be lovely enough formal occasions, and durable enough for walking in the countryside. Particular attention was paid to the point of the toe, as well as the other hallmarks of Regency historical footwear, with the main goals being both historical accuracy and all-day comfort

One month left of the year! Let's see how far I strayed from my goals.

• 1) Refitting 1860s Evening Bodice Finished March 2011
• 2)Reassembling Plaid Silk Dress Finished February 2011
• 3)Finishing Two Linen 1770s PetticoatsFinished January 2011
• 4)1770s Wool Robe L'anglaise Finished January 2011
• 5)Regency Bonnet Finished April 2011
• 6)1860s Mourning Bonnet and Veil Finished February 2011
• 7)Finish dressing Paper Mache Doll Finished April 2011
• 8)Clothkits Skirt Finished May 2011
• 9)1940s Dress Finished May 2011
• 10)1830s Sleeve Crinolines Finished June 2011
• 11)1860s Sheer Mourning/Black Dress Finished June 2011
• 12)1860s Traveling Veil Finished July 2011
• 13)1850s Straw Bonnet Finished July 2011
• 14)1830s Dress Finished September 2011
• 15)Halloween Costume Finished September 2011

ADDED PROJECTS

- 1860s Evening Gown for Remembrance Day- Finished November 2011 - 1860s Outfit for Child -All finished except dress - New 1860s Belt- Finished October 2011

• 16)Reconstructing 1850s Wool Dress
• 17)1830s Belt
• 18)1830s Pereline
• 19)1850s Cotton Dress
• 20)1850s Black Wool Basque
• 21)1860s Sheer Outerwear Thing
• 22)Recover Marquise Parasol
• 23)Finish dressing china doll

So, for December, I'm going to try and knock out some of the smaller projects and bring the number down. So, I am aiming for getting the Belt, Pereline, and Doll done, at least.

And for your viewing pleasure today, a blog post on textile conservation from FIDM, including pictures of what bad or no conservation efforts does to a garment!

http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2010/08/the-fidm-museum-conservation-collection.html#more%blogit-more%%%

Okay, so I lost a bunch of blog posts at some point. And totally fail at following a plan throughout the year. Whatever.

• 1) Refitting 1860s Evening Bodice Finished March 2011
• 2)Reassembling Plaid Silk Dress Finished February 2011
• 3)Finishing Two Linen 1770s PetticoatsFinished January 2011
• 4)1770s Wool Robe L'anglaise Finished January 2011
• 5)Regency Bonnet Finished April 2011
• 6)1860s Mourning Bonnet and Veil Finished February 2011
• 7)Finish dressing Paper Mache Doll Finished April 2011
• 8)Clothkits Skirt Finished May 2011
• 9)1940s Dress Finished May 2011
• 10)1830s Sleeve Crinolines Finished June 2011
• 11)1860s Sheer Mourning/Black Dress Finished June 2011
• 12)1860s Traveling Veil Finished July 2011
• 13)1850s Straw Bonnet Finished July 2011
• 14)Reconstructing 1850s Wool Dress
• 15)1830s Dress
• 16)1830s Belt
• 17)1830s Pereline
• 18)1850s Cotton Dress
• 19)1850s Black Wool Basque
• 20)1860s Sheer Outerwear Thing
• 21)Recover Marquise Parasol
• 22)Finish dressing china doll
• 23) Halloween Costume

And the 1830s dress is half-way done. And the Halloween costume is started. I meant for the 1830s dress to be done in August. It's not. I've been working on... redoing some other things, and sewing some kids stuff, and making new unders, and enjoying my new silks. And some work sewing. So I've actually way exceeded the amount of production; but still... the original list! Must work on original list! Ack!

This ad from a relatively local paper in 1866 makes me happy in many ways!

 Run to COHEN’S very quick
 For HIGH PRICES is mighty sick,
 If you wish to keep him down
 By the CHEAPEST GOODS IN TOWN.
 Take your CASH and BARTER there,
 He will be polite and fair.
 BARGAINS there you can get
 Ten per cent his profits net.
 So rush along, be in the ring.
 And do your trading while I sing.


 FRESH ARRIVALS every day,
 Cheap and Cheaper buyers say; 
 CALICOS of every Style,
 HOOP SKIRTS there are pile on pile,
 THE ENGLISH PRINCESS SKIRT or three,
 And the DOLLAR SKIRT you’ll see,
 WORSTED, FLANNELS, HATS AND SHOES
 CLOTHING ready made to use.
 So don’t delay, but push along,
 While I sing this CHEAP STORE song.
 M. COHEN has the SHAKER HOODS
 And BALMORALS of finest GOODS
 The latest Style of BONNETS there
 You’ll find untrimm’d or trim’d with care.
 For GIRLS he has the Hat for Fall
 Or Winter, and can suit them all.
 For BOYS he’s got the Velvet Cap,
 The Slick the Cloth and PLUSH WITH Flap.
 So hurry ‘long in time to get
 Your CROCKERY WARE by piece or set.
 GOOD OLD RIO you can get
 And SUGAR too, that isn’t wet.
 There you can get at lowest price
 Your SALT & Dye Stuffs, & your SPICE.
 In short of GROCERIES he will keep
 A Full Supply of Good and Cheap.
 OF HARDWARE he will keep on Hand
 The best sold in this Tar Heel LAND.
 So run along, and take a peep
 At Goods that all agree are cheap.

 In fifty lines I cannot tell
 Of all he has, and how he’ll sell,
 But this I know, he’s selling cheap,
 And profits large he doesn’t reap.
 He’ll take just what you bring to sell,
 And though called ‘Jew’ will treat you well.
 “No dead men wanted here,” tis said,
 But let them blow HIGH PRICE is dead;
 So I’ll advise you call and try
 AT COHEN’S when you wish to buy.


 Hillsborough Recorder, October 2, 1866.
 M. COHEN’s Variety Store, C.M. Latimer’s Old Stand, Hillsborough, NC.

April's over. It's June. I'm tired. Here are my goals. I am, btw, almost finished with that blasted black sheer.

• 1) Refitting 1860s Evening Bodice Finished March 2011
• 2)Reassembling Plaid Silk Dress Finished February 2011
• 3)Finishing Two Linen 1770s PetticoatsFinished January 2011
• 4)1770s Wool Robe L'anglaise Finished January 2011
• 5)Regency Bonnet Finished April 2011
• 6)1860s Mourning Bonnet and Veil Finished February 2011
• 7)Finish dressing Paper Mache Doll Finished April 2011
• 8)Clothkits Skirt Finished May 2011
• 9)1940s Dress Finished May 2011
• 10)Reconstructing 1850s Wool Dress
• 11)1830s Sleeve Crinolines -Goal June 2011
• 12)1830s Dress -Start June 2011
• 13)1830s Belt
• 14)1830s Pereline
• 15)1850s Straw Bonnet
• 16)1850s Cotton Dress
• 17)1850s Black Wool Basque
• 18)1860s Traveling Veil -Goal June 2011
• 19)1860s Sheer Mourning/Black Dress -Goal March 2011
• 20)1860s Sheer Outerwear Thing
• 21)Recover Marquise Parasol
• 22)Finish dressing china doll
• 23) Halloween Costume

A while back, while sick, I posted a rant that was brought up by seeing someone I know claim someone else's sewing as their own. Now, that I'm not sick, I'd like to talk in a logical manner about what I was so upset about, as well as the legalities of it all.

First, moral obligations. I think we can all agree that if you go and by a landscape painting, add an extra bird, and change the artist name to your own, that's a pretty skezzy thing to do, right? Well, what about if you buy a print and alter it, just because it's not an original piece, doesn't mean that you have the right to add a bird and call it your own. As a seamstresss, I would be outraged if I ever sold a dress to someone, just to have them change the trim and go around telling people that they made the dress themselves. No, they didn't. I don't think the situation changes if a person goes and buys a mass-produced garment and does the same thing. However, there are people out there I see who buy thrifted clothing, completely cut it apart and make a new garment of these. For the most part, these seamstresses don't call it their own work, but call it "repurposed" or "recycled" or something like that; I appreciate that, as they are calling it what it is, and being honest. I also admire the heck out of a lot of their work.

But back to the issue. Original dress that set me off. It was a semi-massed produced dress; the initial person purchased it and added some trim, then told people she made it herself. No; you decorated it yourself. Call it was it is. Be honest. I'm all about encouraging budding seamstresses in the skill; but don't claim work you haven't done.

Now, legally speaking. Unfortunately, fashion doesn't have the same protection currently as some other art-forms do. There is much debate over whether fashion design can be copyrighted; ie; making "knock-offs" an infringement of these copyrights. That's not exactly what we are talking about here though. We also have copyright laws on pattern useage; patterns stay under copyright for a long (I think 75 years) time; we can't buy a pattern, make 200 copies of the item, and call it our own and sell it. The pattern you buy commercially is only to make yourself garments; non-profit, etc. Okay, we are getting a little closer to what we are talking about. Now, unless a dress is copyrighted, or the dress design, we aren't dealing with copyrights. So is this just a moral issue? Is there any law protecting seamstresses from having other people claim their work? Maybe this falls under plagiarism? A garment is definitely intellectual and creative property... but plagiarism isn't a crime; so I guess it goes back to the moral and ethical question of it all.

Probably inevitable. Restructuring of 2011 plans.

BTW, I think 2012 will be the year of Reading and Underpinnings and Modern sewing.

• 1) Refitting 1860s Evening Bodice Finished March 2011
• 2)Reassembling Plaid Silk Dress Finished February 2011
• 3)Finishing Two Linen 1770s PetticoatsFinished January 2011
• 4)1770s Wool Robe L'anglaise Finished January 2011
• 5)Regency Bonnet Finished April 2011
• 6)1860s Mourning Bonnet and Veil - Finished February 2011
• 7)Finish dressing Paper Mache Doll Finished April 2011
• 8)Reconstructing 1850s Wool Dress
• 9)1830s Sleeve Crinolines
• 10)1830s Dress
• 11)1830s Belt
• 12)1830s Pereline
• 13)1850s Straw Bonnet
• 14)1850s Cotton Dress
• 15)1850s Black Wool Basque
• 16)1860s Traveling Veil
• 17)1860s Sheer Mourning/Black Dress -Goal March 2011
• 18)1860s Sheer Outerwear Thing
• 19)Recover Marquise Parasol
• 20)Finish dressing china doll

Added Projects-

• 21) ClothKits Skirt - Goal May 2011
• 22) Halloween Costume
• 23) 1940s Dress - Goal May 2011

That brings the total up to almost exactly 2 projects a month. And I'm behind. *sigh*

Very cool dress preservation and reconstruction:

http://www.pasthorizons.com/index.php/archives/03/2011/the-archaeology-of-a-dress

Oh, those beetle wings! I love the use of beetle wings in the trim of a dress. There was an 1840s dress on an auction site not to long ago that had beetle wing trim... oh! Does anyone know where to buy beetle wings these days? Are beetle wings harvested in a humane manner??

In other news, my regency bonnet is done, save for putting ribbon and ties on it, which I don't have yet. I'm working on picking out ribbon.

I've started an additional project to, but as it's not on my list, I'm going to keep in a secret for now. :-)

American Duchess has done it again! (hopefully!) Now you can pre-order some pretty nice looking early regency styled shoes. I am really looking forward to these, and so happy that there is something filling in the gap for that period of foodwear!

The "Pemberley" Regency shoes are closely based on extant footwear from the 1790s through 1810. The smooth, dyable, hand-sewn leather upper is designed to be lovely enough formal occasions, and durable enough for walking in the countryside. Particular attention was paid to the point of the toe, as well as the other hallmarks of Regency historical footwear, with the main goals being both historical accuracy and all-day comfort

One month left of the year! Let's see how far I strayed from my goals.

• 1) Refitting 1860s Evening Bodice Finished March 2011
• 2)Reassembling Plaid Silk Dress Finished February 2011
• 3)Finishing Two Linen 1770s PetticoatsFinished January 2011
• 4)1770s Wool Robe L'anglaise Finished January 2011
• 5)Regency Bonnet Finished April 2011
• 6)1860s Mourning Bonnet and Veil Finished February 2011
• 7)Finish dressing Paper Mache Doll Finished April 2011
• 8)Clothkits Skirt Finished May 2011
• 9)1940s Dress Finished May 2011
• 10)1830s Sleeve Crinolines Finished June 2011
• 11)1860s Sheer Mourning/Black Dress Finished June 2011
• 12)1860s Traveling Veil Finished July 2011
• 13)1850s Straw Bonnet Finished July 2011
• 14)1830s Dress Finished September 2011
• 15)Halloween Costume Finished September 2011

ADDED PROJECTS

- 1860s Evening Gown for Remembrance Day- Finished November 2011 - 1860s Outfit for Child -All finished except dress - New 1860s Belt- Finished October 2011

• 16)Reconstructing 1850s Wool Dress
• 17)1830s Belt
• 18)1830s Pereline
• 19)1850s Cotton Dress
• 20)1850s Black Wool Basque
• 21)1860s Sheer Outerwear Thing
• 22)Recover Marquise Parasol
• 23)Finish dressing china doll

So, for December, I'm going to try and knock out some of the smaller projects and bring the number down. So, I am aiming for getting the Belt, Pereline, and Doll done, at least.

And for your viewing pleasure today, a blog post on textile conservation from FIDM, including pictures of what bad or no conservation efforts does to a garment!

http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2010/08/the-fidm-museum-conservation-collection.html#more%blogit-more%%%

Okay, so I lost a bunch of blog posts at some point. And totally fail at following a plan throughout the year. Whatever.

• 1) Refitting 1860s Evening Bodice Finished March 2011
• 2)Reassembling Plaid Silk Dress Finished February 2011
• 3)Finishing Two Linen 1770s PetticoatsFinished January 2011
• 4)1770s Wool Robe L'anglaise Finished January 2011
• 5)Regency Bonnet Finished April 2011
• 6)1860s Mourning Bonnet and Veil Finished February 2011
• 7)Finish dressing Paper Mache Doll Finished April 2011
• 8)Clothkits Skirt Finished May 2011
• 9)1940s Dress Finished May 2011
• 10)1830s Sleeve Crinolines Finished June 2011
• 11)1860s Sheer Mourning/Black Dress Finished June 2011
• 12)1860s Traveling Veil Finished July 2011
• 13)1850s Straw Bonnet Finished July 2011
• 14)Reconstructing 1850s Wool Dress
• 15)1830s Dress
• 16)1830s Belt
• 17)1830s Pereline
• 18)1850s Cotton Dress
• 19)1850s Black Wool Basque
• 20)1860s Sheer Outerwear Thing
• 21)Recover Marquise Parasol
• 22)Finish dressing china doll
• 23) Halloween Costume

And the 1830s dress is half-way done. And the Halloween costume is started. I meant for the 1830s dress to be done in August. It's not. I've been working on... redoing some other things, and sewing some kids stuff, and making new unders, and enjoying my new silks. And some work sewing. So I've actually way exceeded the amount of production; but still... the original list! Must work on original list! Ack!

This ad from a relatively local paper in 1866 makes me happy in many ways!

 Run to COHEN’S very quick
 For HIGH PRICES is mighty sick,
 If you wish to keep him down
 By the CHEAPEST GOODS IN TOWN.
 Take your CASH and BARTER there,
 He will be polite and fair.
 BARGAINS there you can get
 Ten per cent his profits net.
 So rush along, be in the ring.
 And do your trading while I sing.


 FRESH ARRIVALS every day,
 Cheap and Cheaper buyers say; 
 CALICOS of every Style,
 HOOP SKIRTS there are pile on pile,
 THE ENGLISH PRINCESS SKIRT or three,
 And the DOLLAR SKIRT you’ll see,
 WORSTED, FLANNELS, HATS AND SHOES
 CLOTHING ready made to use.
 So don’t delay, but push along,
 While I sing this CHEAP STORE song.
 M. COHEN has the SHAKER HOODS
 And BALMORALS of finest GOODS
 The latest Style of BONNETS there
 You’ll find untrimm’d or trim’d with care.
 For GIRLS he has the Hat for Fall
 Or Winter, and can suit them all.
 For BOYS he’s got the Velvet Cap,
 The Slick the Cloth and PLUSH WITH Flap.
 So hurry ‘long in time to get
 Your CROCKERY WARE by piece or set.
 GOOD OLD RIO you can get
 And SUGAR too, that isn’t wet.
 There you can get at lowest price
 Your SALT & Dye Stuffs, & your SPICE.
 In short of GROCERIES he will keep
 A Full Supply of Good and Cheap.
 OF HARDWARE he will keep on Hand
 The best sold in this Tar Heel LAND.
 So run along, and take a peep
 At Goods that all agree are cheap.

 In fifty lines I cannot tell
 Of all he has, and how he’ll sell,
 But this I know, he’s selling cheap,
 And profits large he doesn’t reap.
 He’ll take just what you bring to sell,
 And though called ‘Jew’ will treat you well.
 “No dead men wanted here,” tis said,
 But let them blow HIGH PRICE is dead;
 So I’ll advise you call and try
 AT COHEN’S when you wish to buy.


 Hillsborough Recorder, October 2, 1866.
 M. COHEN’s Variety Store, C.M. Latimer’s Old Stand, Hillsborough, NC.

April's over. It's June. I'm tired. Here are my goals. I am, btw, almost finished with that blasted black sheer.

• 1) Refitting 1860s Evening Bodice Finished March 2011
• 2)Reassembling Plaid Silk Dress Finished February 2011
• 3)Finishing Two Linen 1770s PetticoatsFinished January 2011
• 4)1770s Wool Robe L'anglaise Finished January 2011
• 5)Regency Bonnet Finished April 2011
• 6)1860s Mourning Bonnet and Veil Finished February 2011
• 7)Finish dressing Paper Mache Doll Finished April 2011
• 8)Clothkits Skirt Finished May 2011
• 9)1940s Dress Finished May 2011
• 10)Reconstructing 1850s Wool Dress
• 11)1830s Sleeve Crinolines -Goal June 2011
• 12)1830s Dress -Start June 2011
• 13)1830s Belt
• 14)1830s Pereline
• 15)1850s Straw Bonnet
• 16)1850s Cotton Dress
• 17)1850s Black Wool Basque
• 18)1860s Traveling Veil -Goal June 2011
• 19)1860s Sheer Mourning/Black Dress -Goal March 2011
• 20)1860s Sheer Outerwear Thing
• 21)Recover Marquise Parasol
• 22)Finish dressing china doll
• 23) Halloween Costume

A while back, while sick, I posted a rant that was brought up by seeing someone I know claim someone else's sewing as their own. Now, that I'm not sick, I'd like to talk in a logical manner about what I was so upset about, as well as the legalities of it all.

First, moral obligations. I think we can all agree that if you go and by a landscape painting, add an extra bird, and change the artist name to your own, that's a pretty skezzy thing to do, right? Well, what about if you buy a print and alter it, just because it's not an original piece, doesn't mean that you have the right to add a bird and call it your own. As a seamstresss, I would be outraged if I ever sold a dress to someone, just to have them change the trim and go around telling people that they made the dress themselves. No, they didn't. I don't think the situation changes if a person goes and buys a mass-produced garment and does the same thing. However, there are people out there I see who buy thrifted clothing, completely cut it apart and make a new garment of these. For the most part, these seamstresses don't call it their own work, but call it "repurposed" or "recycled" or something like that; I appreciate that, as they are calling it what it is, and being honest. I also admire the heck out of a lot of their work.

But back to the issue. Original dress that set me off. It was a semi-massed produced dress; the initial person purchased it and added some trim, then told people she made it herself. No; you decorated it yourself. Call it was it is. Be honest. I'm all about encouraging budding seamstresses in the skill; but don't claim work you haven't done.

Now, legally speaking. Unfortunately, fashion doesn't have the same protection currently as some other art-forms do. There is much debate over whether fashion design can be copyrighted; ie; making "knock-offs" an infringement of these copyrights. That's not exactly what we are talking about here though. We also have copyright laws on pattern useage; patterns stay under copyright for a long (I think 75 years) time; we can't buy a pattern, make 200 copies of the item, and call it our own and sell it. The pattern you buy commercially is only to make yourself garments; non-profit, etc. Okay, we are getting a little closer to what we are talking about. Now, unless a dress is copyrighted, or the dress design, we aren't dealing with copyrights. So is this just a moral issue? Is there any law protecting seamstresses from having other people claim their work? Maybe this falls under plagiarism? A garment is definitely intellectual and creative property... but plagiarism isn't a crime; so I guess it goes back to the moral and ethical question of it all.

Probably inevitable. Restructuring of 2011 plans.

BTW, I think 2012 will be the year of Reading and Underpinnings and Modern sewing.

• 1) Refitting 1860s Evening Bodice Finished March 2011
• 2)Reassembling Plaid Silk Dress Finished February 2011
• 3)Finishing Two Linen 1770s PetticoatsFinished January 2011
• 4)1770s Wool Robe L'anglaise Finished January 2011
• 5)Regency Bonnet Finished April 2011
• 6)1860s Mourning Bonnet and Veil - Finished February 2011
• 7)Finish dressing Paper Mache Doll Finished April 2011
• 8)Reconstructing 1850s Wool Dress
• 9)1830s Sleeve Crinolines
• 10)1830s Dress
• 11)1830s Belt
• 12)1830s Pereline
• 13)1850s Straw Bonnet
• 14)1850s Cotton Dress
• 15)1850s Black Wool Basque
• 16)1860s Traveling Veil
• 17)1860s Sheer Mourning/Black Dress -Goal March 2011
• 18)1860s Sheer Outerwear Thing
• 19)Recover Marquise Parasol
• 20)Finish dressing china doll

Added Projects-

• 21) ClothKits Skirt - Goal May 2011
• 22) Halloween Costume
• 23) 1940s Dress - Goal May 2011

That brings the total up to almost exactly 2 projects a month. And I'm behind. *sigh*

Very cool dress preservation and reconstruction:

http://www.pasthorizons.com/index.php/archives/03/2011/the-archaeology-of-a-dress

Oh, those beetle wings! I love the use of beetle wings in the trim of a dress. There was an 1840s dress on an auction site not to long ago that had beetle wing trim... oh! Does anyone know where to buy beetle wings these days? Are beetle wings harvested in a humane manner??

In other news, my regency bonnet is done, save for putting ribbon and ties on it, which I don't have yet. I'm working on picking out ribbon.

I've started an additional project to, but as it's not on my list, I'm going to keep in a secret for now. :-)